Canyon lands to Rockies

OK, it's a new contributor this time around, as Dev has taken on an editorial role only. I'll try to match her wordsmanship.

Big is best!

My brother recently told me that his baby daughter put on 12 ounces in a week. An incredible statistic to the starved people of Europe no doubt, but having spent the last month putting on a similar amount over breakfast each day, I shrugged it off disinterestedly. Last night was the first time we've been served a normal sized portion of food (i.e. one that doesn't require stomach surgery to finish). We were so overjoyed we immediately ordered ice cream for pudding. As such, we heartily recommend the cajun cuisine of 'Crave' in Crested Butte (pronounced 'beaut' to anyone sniggering) in the heart of skiing country in the Rockies. If I were a winter sports nut I would definitely head to Colorado.

For summer folk, Colorado is also a great place to come. A very nice chap from Kansas called 'Randy' - I thought it was a name you only found in movies, too - directed us towards a sensational hike up to the peak of Courthouse Mountain (12,152 ft) where a 360 degree view affords clear vistas south and west to Utah and north and east further into the mountains.

Canyons!

The 'big' theme continued when we entered Utah and stayed at Zion and Bryce (above right) National Parks. These are the first two 'steps' down which culminate in the Grand Canyon (above left) in Arizona. All three are amazing and were forged not by glaciers like Yosemite valley, but by the gradual erosive force of rivers and weather. A huge fire started by a lightning strike meant that most of the backcountry of Zion was closed off to visitors. It was still raging after five days. It doesn't take much to escape the tour buses and plump families. If you're willing to hike up some steep trails, it's worth the effort. The Emerald Pools at Zion, the 'Peekaboo' trail at Bryce and the descent (and lung-busting ascent) to the depths of the Grand Canyon weren't overrun by grockles.

The motor car - an American obsession

Other strange Bigness relates to the American obsession with enormous vehicles. The zealous residents of the borough of Richmond, who have welcomed the increased tax on 4x4s, would look agog at the vast behemoths that cruise the highways of the US. In 4 weeks we have seen only two hatchbacks. True, the roads are bigger and the streets wider in cities, but the sight of an RV towing a boat and an SUV beggars belief. The square footage of living space in those things is about double your average Tooting two-bedroomer.

The Chevvy

See attached photo of a car fit for the cannonball run, which goes from nought to sixty in about 2.5 minutes, does roughly ten miles to the gallon, and gives off the same amount of emissions as Sweden does in a year. Wait - that's not fair. She's a trusted companion who is yet to let us down. Although, I'm a bit nervous that the dashboard keeps telling me to 'change oil soon'. A further delight is that it bleeps at you for failing to do just about anything - there's no escaping the nanny state. That said, I love her. If only she weren't an automatic...

Navajo Country

I'm currently reading 'Bury My Heart At Wounded Knee', an Indian account of the history of the American West, 1860-90. It's a one-sided account for sure, but what is clear is the litany of broken treaties that effectively robbed all Indian tribes of their land (principally for gold, other metals and minerals and for white settlers to farm the land) and relocated them into reservations in the crappiest land available. We passed through the Navajo reservation in Arizona and one thing that immediately becomes apparent is the poverty of its inhabitants. Sure, Monument Valley is stunning and our Navajo guide, Dan, was great, but he seemed very sad that the current generation is reluctant to learn the native language and is slowly leaving the reservation in search of jobs. He can see his heritage ebbing away.

Monument Valley

We've all seen the westerns - Clint Eastwood having a hairy time in 'The Geiger somethingorother' and John Wayne doing stuff like taking 'em to Missouri, but the buttes of sandstone are staggering in their size and beauty. We were followed through the desert by an angry lightning storm, which produced an amazing matinee and evening show for us. When it was over, I seemed to have gained a fiance and lost the family diamonds. It's strange how you get swept away by the moment.

Wildlife

OK - a quick resume for you.

Skunk (do not approach from behind), raccoons, chipmunks, chikadees, Kaibab squirrel, the rump and tail of a mountain lion (or so Dev says), beavers (they were busy), humming birds, hawks, woodpeckers, a rattlesnake (do not prod with a stick, Dev) and lots of other stuff too. I'm hoping to 'bag' a bear (black or Grizzly, I'm not fussy) and a Buffalo in Yellowstone. Which is where we're headed next. And then to Grand Teton and the Snake River Country.

Hope you're all still on dry land.

Pip pip for now!